So,after a few of days doing nothing but feeling like crap and memorizing the local t.v guide I was feeling healthy enough to try and begin my journey again.I was really looking forward to being out on the road again for the two day trip to Humahuaca 140k(88miles)and 1700 vertical meters away.My stay in Ju Juy had been fun but the last two days were just a chore and I needed to leave.
. It wasn`t long before the highway tilted upward and my big chain-ring retired for the day.I should have taken that as a sign of things to come and even though I`d seen this road a couple of weeks earlier the shock set in pretty quickly.I knew that my destination for the day was above the lush green forest that I was riding through and that the town of Purmamarca was in the low desert above the green zone.What I couldn`t believe was that I could see the end of the green zone high(and I mean high) above me to the north. Surely I wouldn`t have to go that far up today.You bet!!
The first couple of hours went by without much concern as I followed the lush river valley ever higher. Apparently it rains a lot here in the summer resulting in the bright green vegetation that abounds.It was also the reason that the huge river bed that was now almost empty, shows signs of it`s summer power by leaving the wreckage of countless bridges strewn about all over the place.I wouldn`t want to be around when that river is angry.
After my first stop for the day the scenery bacame almost Albertaesque.Huge bare mountains separated by deep gorges ending in the tell tale signs of a raging spring snow melt.Boulders piled high at the base of each tributary bore testament to the force of this place and the whole area seemed alive with energy.The same couldn`t be said for me though as I hit the one place that I had been dreading.The stairwaiy up to the desert.
When I had seen this stretch of road on my tour two weeks before I figured that it would hurt but sitting in a speeding car doesn`t do this road justice.I began climbing the seemingly endless switchbacks which are in total only around 10k (6miles) long,thinking that I would just take my time and all would be good.I had forgotten about the 45kilos(100plus pounds) I was carrying not to mention the drag of the trailer and the fact that I`m on a mountain bike.In short that 10k took me about 2hrs!!I had to stop so many times to catch my breath it was insane.I don`t know if it was the higher elevation or the remains of my flu but it was hard,really hard!The frustrating thing was once I crested the pass it was 20k(12miles) all downhill to Purmamarca at 2192meters.Lord knows how high that pass was but it sucked.Only the amazing view of the green valley,through which I had ridden, far,far below gave me any sense of achievement for the day as I slowly ground to a halt with only 3.5k(2 miles)to go.Trying to make myself turn off the highway and ride uphill again was a battle royal but good sense prevailed as it was starting to get cold and I wanted a hot shower.With that I rode into Purmamarca and found myself a hostel for the night. I should say that an old friend found me a hostel for the night.As I rode into town who should I bump into but Fernando,one of the guys that run the hostel in Ju Juy.He was chatting with a guy he had just met and they suggested that I go to the same place that he was staying.Sounded like a plan to me and I was soon showered and changed and out checking out this touristy little mountain town.The 70k(44miles) that day had taken me just under 6 hrs!Oh my god!!!
Looking around Purmamarca doesn´t take long but it is full of highlights.For a start,there is the reason this place is one the tourist map."The Hill of Seven Colours"!Just outside the town but dominating it`s western edge is a hill that seems to have every possible colour of rock and dirt that you could imagine.The colours range from bright red to orange to green to grey with every shade in between all lined up on top of each other.I`m sure there are more than seven colours but "The Hill with Heaps of Colours " just dosen`t have the same ring to it now does it?I had seen this hill before but not at sunset, so after meandering aimlessly for ages I found myself a street corner just by my hostel and settled in for the show.
From my spot I could look up the street to the west and see the rainbow hill and then look the other way and see the huge mountain that filled the valleys`end, to the east.My hill watching was interrupted though by a very strange but funny incident.There I was minding my own business when this stray dog jumps up onto the high curb next to me and then proceeds to stand behind me.I thought that was weird until he started to pace backwards and forwards peeking out from behind my back, up the street from where he came.Didn`t take long to figure out what was going on when a huge dog came `round the corner obviously looking for someone.Seems this little guy was seeking my protection from the local bully and his gang.The big dog could see him behind me but didn`t do anything except let out one big bark.I don`t know if he was talking to me,the little guy behind me or his gang but he did look at me with disgust just before leaving us alone to enjoy the sunset together.My new friend had other plans.He must have figured it was safe to go and wandered off down the street only to be ambushed by the whole pack.Poor Bastard.It looked like a scene out of a doggie version of West Side Story as more dogs joined in to help my little mate.Last I saw of him was his butt heading off down the highway toward Buenous Aires.At speed!The big dog sauntered past me once more and let out another bark as if to say "stay out of our business Gringo".Very entertaining really.
During all the commotion the sun had set on the coloured hill so I missed that and turned my attention to the huge mountain to the east.With the town deep in a valley and now shrouded in semi dark of dusk, the mountain just glowed from the sun hitting its bright orange soil.The light bounced off the peak brighter and brighter until the whole mountain had to surrender to the night.The last thing I saw before the light faded completely was the sillouhettes of huge cactus plants, seemilgly standing gaurd along the ridge tops that framed the llittle valley.
By now it was cold and my thoughts turned to dinner.I caught up again with Gaston the fellow I had met earlier that afternoon and we decided that we would have dinner together at the resaurant in our hostel.So,with apologies to my mate "Jerry the LLama farmer" in Quebec,I had my second llama steak of the trip accompanied by some beer,great company and yet again another amazing Argentinian singing display by the owner of the hostel.With that it was off to bed in anticipation of another great day in the muntains.
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. It wasn`t long before the highway tilted upward and my big chain-ring retired for the day.I should have taken that as a sign of things to come and even though I`d seen this road a couple of weeks earlier the shock set in pretty quickly.I knew that my destination for the day was above the lush green forest that I was riding through and that the town of Purmamarca was in the low desert above the green zone.What I couldn`t believe was that I could see the end of the green zone high(and I mean high) above me to the north. Surely I wouldn`t have to go that far up today.You bet!!
The first couple of hours went by without much concern as I followed the lush river valley ever higher. Apparently it rains a lot here in the summer resulting in the bright green vegetation that abounds.It was also the reason that the huge river bed that was now almost empty, shows signs of it`s summer power by leaving the wreckage of countless bridges strewn about all over the place.I wouldn`t want to be around when that river is angry.
After my first stop for the day the scenery bacame almost Albertaesque.Huge bare mountains separated by deep gorges ending in the tell tale signs of a raging spring snow melt.Boulders piled high at the base of each tributary bore testament to the force of this place and the whole area seemed alive with energy.The same couldn`t be said for me though as I hit the one place that I had been dreading.The stairwaiy up to the desert.
When I had seen this stretch of road on my tour two weeks before I figured that it would hurt but sitting in a speeding car doesn`t do this road justice.I began climbing the seemingly endless switchbacks which are in total only around 10k (6miles) long,thinking that I would just take my time and all would be good.I had forgotten about the 45kilos(100plus pounds) I was carrying not to mention the drag of the trailer and the fact that I`m on a mountain bike.In short that 10k took me about 2hrs!!I had to stop so many times to catch my breath it was insane.I don`t know if it was the higher elevation or the remains of my flu but it was hard,really hard!The frustrating thing was once I crested the pass it was 20k(12miles) all downhill to Purmamarca at 2192meters.Lord knows how high that pass was but it sucked.Only the amazing view of the green valley,through which I had ridden, far,far below gave me any sense of achievement for the day as I slowly ground to a halt with only 3.5k(2 miles)to go.Trying to make myself turn off the highway and ride uphill again was a battle royal but good sense prevailed as it was starting to get cold and I wanted a hot shower.With that I rode into Purmamarca and found myself a hostel for the night. I should say that an old friend found me a hostel for the night.As I rode into town who should I bump into but Fernando,one of the guys that run the hostel in Ju Juy.He was chatting with a guy he had just met and they suggested that I go to the same place that he was staying.Sounded like a plan to me and I was soon showered and changed and out checking out this touristy little mountain town.The 70k(44miles) that day had taken me just under 6 hrs!Oh my god!!!
Looking around Purmamarca doesn´t take long but it is full of highlights.For a start,there is the reason this place is one the tourist map."The Hill of Seven Colours"!Just outside the town but dominating it`s western edge is a hill that seems to have every possible colour of rock and dirt that you could imagine.The colours range from bright red to orange to green to grey with every shade in between all lined up on top of each other.I`m sure there are more than seven colours but "The Hill with Heaps of Colours " just dosen`t have the same ring to it now does it?I had seen this hill before but not at sunset, so after meandering aimlessly for ages I found myself a street corner just by my hostel and settled in for the show.
From my spot I could look up the street to the west and see the rainbow hill and then look the other way and see the huge mountain that filled the valleys`end, to the east.My hill watching was interrupted though by a very strange but funny incident.There I was minding my own business when this stray dog jumps up onto the high curb next to me and then proceeds to stand behind me.I thought that was weird until he started to pace backwards and forwards peeking out from behind my back, up the street from where he came.Didn`t take long to figure out what was going on when a huge dog came `round the corner obviously looking for someone.Seems this little guy was seeking my protection from the local bully and his gang.The big dog could see him behind me but didn`t do anything except let out one big bark.I don`t know if he was talking to me,the little guy behind me or his gang but he did look at me with disgust just before leaving us alone to enjoy the sunset together.My new friend had other plans.He must have figured it was safe to go and wandered off down the street only to be ambushed by the whole pack.Poor Bastard.It looked like a scene out of a doggie version of West Side Story as more dogs joined in to help my little mate.Last I saw of him was his butt heading off down the highway toward Buenous Aires.At speed!The big dog sauntered past me once more and let out another bark as if to say "stay out of our business Gringo".Very entertaining really.
During all the commotion the sun had set on the coloured hill so I missed that and turned my attention to the huge mountain to the east.With the town deep in a valley and now shrouded in semi dark of dusk, the mountain just glowed from the sun hitting its bright orange soil.The light bounced off the peak brighter and brighter until the whole mountain had to surrender to the night.The last thing I saw before the light faded completely was the sillouhettes of huge cactus plants, seemilgly standing gaurd along the ridge tops that framed the llittle valley.
By now it was cold and my thoughts turned to dinner.I caught up again with Gaston the fellow I had met earlier that afternoon and we decided that we would have dinner together at the resaurant in our hostel.So,with apologies to my mate "Jerry the LLama farmer" in Quebec,I had my second llama steak of the trip accompanied by some beer,great company and yet again another amazing Argentinian singing display by the owner of the hostel.With that it was off to bed in anticipation of another great day in the muntains.
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